Amarante’s Phallic Pastries Blend Faith, Fertility and Flavor in Portugal
In the historic city of Amarante, Portugal, a unique culinary tradition meets ancient rituals and religious devotion. The city is renowned for its phallic-shaped pastries, known as 'bolos de Sao Goncalo', named after the city's patron saint. These pastries, once banned during Portugal's dictatorship, are now embraced as a symbol of local identity.
The tradition of 'bolos de Sao Goncalo' dates back to medieval times and is believed to be linked to ancient rituals honouring prosperity and fertility gods. Today, people visit the Sao Goncalo Church and Monastery to pray for love or to start a family, clutching the rope belt on the saint's statue, seeking blessings and good fortune.
The pastries, baked to resemble a particular part of male anatomy, are available at various bakeries in Amarante. Confeitaria da Ponte, the city's oldest bakery, offers these traditional treats alongside other egg-yolk-based delights like 'pastel de nata'. Meanwhile, Casa dos bolos de Sao Goncalo has given the pastry a modern twist with a pistachio cream filling and green chocolate drizzle. Northern Portuguese cuisine, known for its meaty dishes, offers regional specialties like slow-roasted veal to complement these unique pastries.
For dining, Lusitana restaurant serves affordable and hearty meals, with mains around €12 each. For a more upmarket experience, Ze da Calçada offers regional dishes and local wines, with mains typically costing €16.
Amarante's 'bolos de Sao Goncalo' are more than just pastries; they are a testament to the city's rich history and cultural identity. From ancient rituals to modern-day devotion, these unique treats continue to draw visitors to Amarante, where they can indulge in both culinary delights and spiritual experiences.
