Cycling through Baghdad streets
In the heart of Baghdad, a Canadian journalist embarked on an extraordinary adventure in April 2013. navigating through the city's labyrinth of side streets and narrow alleys, causing bewilderment among rats that had never seen a bike.
The journalist, whose name was later discovered to be Graeme Smith, communicated with a local woman named Kuthar through Facebook. They would sometimes meet at the school exit to enjoy ice cream at Na3na3, with Kuthar's favourite flavour being kiwi.
Smith was a rare sight at Café Shabandar, a popular spot for writers and poets in Mutanabi Street, old Baghdad. The patrons made room for him and offered to pay for his tea. When asked if he had a girlfriend, he revealed that her name was Kuthar.
Cycling around Baghdad was one of the most dangerous things Smith did. At checkpoints, soldiers were surprised or exasperated by a Canadian cyclist. Smith compared Quebecers to Shiites of America, explaining that they are a majority in their country but a minority in Canada, similar to Shiites being a majority in Iraq but a minority in the Muslim world.
Smith also encountered a grocer who gave him a stool and signaled him not to move, then returned with a nephew who spoke English but had nothing to say. Smith was warned not to photograph the concrete wall that protects the Sheraton and the river in Baghdad.
Despite not knowing any Arabic a month ago, Smith now knew a few phrases. He once visited Mutanabi Street, a 30 km round trip, and was asked if he was going to Kuthar's place, to which he responded that it was impossible due to cultural and familial reasons.
The journalist's chronicles from Iraq were selected by journalist André Duchesne, a former colleague and faithful reader of Pierre Foglia. However, specific details about Smith cycling in Baghdad in 2013 are not documented in the provided information or widely recognized in public sources.
The journalist's experience highlights the challenges faced by journalists in Baghdad during that period. They likely faced intense challenges including checkpoints, security threats, and cultural factors. If you are interested in such an experience, it typically would involve navigating a highly volatile security environment, dealing with extreme heat, variable road conditions, and the complexities of urban life in a conflict-affected city.
In contrast to his dangerous cycling expeditions, Graeme Smith fantasized about escaping the chaos of Baghdad to experience a tranquil French lifestyle. Also, for an adventure-travel enthusiast like Smith, navigating the bustling streets of Baghdad was a unique adventure-travel opportunity, much like exploring French countryside on a bike.
