Exploring gastronomic delights, wine-tasting experiences, and luxurious accommodations in a French urban getaway
In the heart of south-west France, the city of Limoges offers a unique blend of history, culture, and gastronomy that makes it an ideal destination for a city break. Food columnist and restaurateur Martin Williams recently took a trip to this charming city and was impressed by the culinary delights it had to offer.
One of the standout restaurants Williams visited was Le Vieux Logis, a 25-bedroom hotel in the picturesque village of Trémolat, less than a 30-minute drive from Bergerac Airport. The hotel, owned by the Giraudel family since 1955, recently passed the reins to four senior team members, including the talented Chef Vincent Arnould, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France and Michelin-starred since 2005.
At Le Vieux Logis, diners can expect cuisine of remarkable precision and heart. Amuse-bouches include a leek-and-potato vichyssoise with radicchio, a duck confit bonbon, and battered whiting that evokes seaside memories. Highlights of the six-course tasting menu include foie gras, langoustine with lardo, hake with grapes, and a local veal roast with ceps.
Another must-visit restaurant is Étoile Dordogne, a Michelin-starred establishment that showcases French gastronomy at its finest. The menu features dishes like foie gras, river-fresh salmon, Limousin lamb, local cheeses, and a decadent chocolate mousse. The restaurant offers a Surprise Menu, which includes a perfect tomato salad with poached lobster, green tomato sorbet, and tomato concassé.
A highlight at Étoile Dordogne was discovering a Burgundian gem: Pernand-Vergelesses. The restaurant also boasts a wine list that is sure to impress even the most discerning oenophile, with offerings such as the 1er Cru Domaine Rapet 2022 from a northern Beaune vineyard near Corton-Charlemagne.
For those seeking a more casual dining experience, Jardin Extraordinaire is a great option. The restaurant offers simple but delicious dishes such as pâté en croute, smoked trout, and beef bourguignon, and has a gastronomic restaurant focusing on regional cuisine with flair.
Limoges is also known for its AOP-protected cattle, veal, lamb, and an apple variety, as well as for producing fine porcelain, considered superior to bone china. The standout restaurants at La Chapelle Saint Martin, a gastro-hotel run by chef Gilles and his wife Aude Dudognon, showcase these local delicacies. The hotel, which is a Relais & Châteaux property with 18 bedrooms, three restaurants, and 'beehive huts' for picnics in the 40-acre grounds, also owns a 12th-century canteen, La Table du Couvent, in the heart of Limoges.
To reach Château de la Trayne, one must cross a single-carriage suspension bridge over the Dordogne river. This 14th-century castle, expanded in the 17th century, features a modern pool, lush gardens, and immaculate interiors.
In conclusion, Limoges offers a culinary journey that is not to be missed. From the casual charm of Jardin Extraordinaire to the Michelin-starred elegance of Étoile Dordogne and Le Vieux Logis, the city's restaurants are a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage. Whether you're a foodie or simply looking for a memorable vacation, Limoges is sure to delight.
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